After the "fun" is over...it is not yet party time...there is much more work to be done!

First, and most important....after harvesting your buds, be sure to dig up, and remove completely, all root balls and mainstems that would usually just be left in the ground over the wintertime. If the root balls will not come out of the ground, uproot them using a gorilla bar, or something similar. Very large plants leave behind "tree stumps" that are easily spotted from a distance. The cops can charge you with growing marijuana, and the only "evidence" that they need to obtain a conviction is root balls and stems that are left in the ground after harvesting! Just as an example, I reside in Illinois, and felony charges come into play if you grow 5 plants, or more. How would you like to have to deal with a felony charge, and the resulting legal fees, just because you were too lazy to dig the root balls out of the ground, or to remove then from your growing container?



A full season oudoor cannabis plant can grow a stem the size of a small tree trunk in a single Summer! Dispose of this "evidence" thoroughly!

Always remember, your growing season is never completely over until all tools, garbage, and especially, root balls and stems, are dug up and eliminated.

The best way to get rid of this evidence is to either dig a hole and bury them deep, or burn the stems in your firepit until nothing but ashes are left. Never, ever, dispose of them in the garbage! If you do not have a firepit, use a barbeque gril, or a backyard fireplace to burn them. Also, do not start an outdoor fire on your property if there are still plants growing there. If someone calls the police about the fire, they now have every right to enter your property. Think before you do anything, when there are living, growing plants on your premises.

Do not just dig them up and throw them ten or twenty feet into the bush! This is not something to be lazy about, this is court admissable evidence of your marijuana cultivation activities! Growers have been arrested on federal charges (100 or more cultivated plants) based on nothing more than the remaining stems that the police found in the ground.

Here is a short excerpt from my book "Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: Hints Kinks and Tips for the Clandestine Cannabis Grower" concerning this subject:

"The feds are charging me with 100+ plants! The state police came in, and they found nothing; all of the plants had been chopped down, except for 10 moms. The feds then came onto the case, saying they had evidence of more than 100 plants being cultivated. Remember, 100 plants triggers the federal statutes. All the feds found were old root balls, and some stalks, a total count of 112 to be exact. They also found around a pound of dried herb, along with a bunch of my hunting guns. The state charged me with the manufacture of less than 10 pounds, along with the charge of simultaneous possession of firearms, at least until the federales hand down their indictment. My research reveals the plants are defined as having leaves and roots! Can they really charge me with only root balls as evidence? My lawyer says that we have to wait and see what they really have, it is still very early in the case."

It doesn't matter which state you are in. This is about the federal DA building his reputation, the asset forfeiture laws, and you rolling over on someone you know, as a confidential informant. If you own a nice home, expensive vehicle, or have a fat bank account, every jurisdiction out there is hungry for your money. And the feds are much less restricted in their methods of disposal of forfeited assets than most states are..................."

"I hate to tell you this, but the evidence of a crime seems credible. I do hope that there were no leaves attached to any of those stalks? If not, hold out for the jury trial option. To prove their charge of 100+ plants, they'll have to have all of those stems, and root balls tested, in order to prove that they are indeed marijuana stems.................."

"I have no idea of where you are, but Michigan law states clearly that you cannot be charged for root balls or stems....the feds may be something totally different though?"

"It all boils down to the feds being able to prove that a crime has been committed. Root balls reveal the existence of a once living cannabis plant. The feds do not have rules that determine what is a legal plant, and what is not. They have gone after people for rooting 100 cuttings! If they test the root balls, they can determine the maturity of the plant when it was cut down............................."

"Me and a guerilla partner got raided a few years back. When all was said and done, they counted 360 root balls, and they charged my partner with a class C felony. I escaped on my four-wheeler, down an old creek bed for about two miles, and then into the deep woods. My partner got 30 days in county jail, and had to pay a lawyer $8000. Not too bad, for the amount of profit that was involved from the harvest, but they can definitely charge you with a crime using only root balls as evidence."

Damn, and here I am, sitting around in February, with piles of dried leaves, and stems, inside, along with root balls outside everywhere, just because I'm too lazy to dispose of them! I am getting up off of my dead ass right now, and heading outside to uproot the root balls. Although, it would have been a hell of a lot easier if I had done it right after harvest, before the ground was frozen solid. I am then going to burn all of my left over stems, branches, and leaves in my backyard fireplace, late tonite. I plan on fueling my burning program with a couple of 40 ouncers of Steel Reserve malt liquor, and a giant spliff of "Pinewarp" (Texada Timewarp X Purple Pineberry), my favorite Indica strain!

 

****************************************************

Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets

Hints Kinks and Tips for the Clandestine Cannabis Grower.

This outdoor marijuana "textbook" is a highly detailed, yet easy to use, outdoor growing trade manual. Crammed cover to cover with trade secrets, and professional techniques, used by the pro's to obtain the heaviest yields of the highest-quality cannabis, while reducing risk, and the amount of back-breaking labor involved. Novel growing methods, covert techniques, and outdoor-growing secrets are introduced-along with advice and comments from actual, guerilla-style growers. The budding guerilla grower will learn how to grow up to four crops per season, and realize absolutely mind-blowing yields!

 

Setting up a clandestine marijuana garden has never been easier...instructions are provided for a large variety of terrains; including swamps, wetlands, cornfields, forest preserves, government property, private property, and many more excellent, but unknown, locations. First time and novice growers are virtually guaranteed a bountiful, outdoor harvest.

 

This practical, informative 'thesis' on outdoor marijuana cultivation packs more facts and information than weed books published in the past; they consist of mostly pictures, and contain little in the way of real-life, useful information. Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets, at 8.5x11 inches in size, and 370 pages of nothing but information, is not just another picture book! Real-life advice about real world problems encountered out in the fields.

 

Become an expert on supplies and logistics, secure garden locations, soil mixes, organic fertilizers, compost and teas, foliar methods, gadgets, camouflage, cannabis-munching critters, rain water collection and storage, pumps, batteries, police surveillance and eradication tactics, planes, helicopters, and satellites, wireless cameras, game cameras, security devices, flushing, drying, curing, pushing plants towards huge yields, multiple crops per year, very short-season crops, and how to grow a 5 pound, or heavier, plant.

Get more info at www.tradesecretspublishing.com

Check out a really cool 88 page flash viewer preview of "Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets

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Glorified pitchforks capable of breaking any kind of soil

Hello fellow guerilla growers, and Happy New Year 2012!

Ever come across what could be called your "dream" guerilla gardening area. Almost inaccessible, lots of cover camouflage, short trees, and maybe even a water supply close by? The only problem being is that the soil in the area is hard-packed, almost like concrete...filled with rocks and tree roots, and completely overgrown with a thick layer of three foot tall wild grasses, brush, and small bushes. When the guerilla grower attempts to break up this soil, the only thing that gets broken up is the guerilla growers hands, and tools! Soil like this will quickly break a tool with a wooden or fiberglass handle, including shovels, and "normal" pitchforks.

Do not even think about using a small, "army shovel" to dig out an area like this, as your hands and wrists will quickly be beaten to a pulp by the hard-rock conditions. Pickaxes, root grubbing tools, and root jacks can be used to clear the area of vegetation before the actual digging gets started. The problem with using a pickaxe is the leverage problem; a pickaxe has to be lifted over the head, and swung forcibly into the earth to break it up, and just wait until you swing that thing and hit a rock; the shock wave travels through your entire body, causing pain and injury. This happens a lot when digging in rocky soil, but is almost unavoidable if you have some very hard packed soil to break up. After the soil is broken into chunks, a shovel is used to scoop the material out of the hole. Unless you are used to swinging a pickaxe daily, you will find out what real pain is when you wake up the morning after digging out a garden. Your hands will be filled with blisters (even if you were wearing gloves) and your back will feel like it is broken. Good luck trying to crawl out of bed!

Think back to the early pioneers and farmers; they had to use a sharpened, steel plow, pulled along by a mule or a pack horse, to break ground like this into narrow rows, usually to a depth of no more than six to eight inches. Even with a horse doing all of the work, it would take the farmer many days, even weeks, to break up a small, previously undisturbed, patch of earth. The guerilla grower wants to dig down to at least 12 inches, preferably 18, when setting up the garden site. Breaking up a rock hard soil like this requires a high-quality tool, preferably constructed of steel alloy, or steel tubing, that has been properly welded together into an almost indestructable, solid steel assembly.

I started my growing career in the rocky, root-filled soils of the Klamath national forest, located near the town of Happy Camp in northern Cali. In the few years that I cultivated marijuana out there, guerilla style, I have broken up more undisturbed, rocky, root-filled ground, than I even care to recollect. After a couple of years of this torture, my hands were rock hard, capable of breaking someone's arm by simply hitting it (I practice a lot of chinese style martial arts where the first move is arm to arm contact (tiger form Shaolin), breaking the opponents arm right off of the bat...fight over). Even the hand and arm conditioning drills that we did under my chinese master did not compare to the beating that my hands took from all of that digging.

All of this changed when I realized that there must be someone out there who has gone through the same type of sod-busting experiences, but with mainstream farming techniques. Why reinvent the wheel? Marijuana cultivation uses the same techniques as mainstream farming, so I inquired to the professionals, figuring that these people had probably already developed the heavy duty hand tools needed for this type of task before farm automation, gas engines, and tractors came along. After a little bit of research (and this was 1985 or so, which meant no internet!) I learned about Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, located about 50 miles south of Happy Camp in Grass Valley, California. These guys were the masters when it came to organic gardening techniques, supplies, tools, chemicals, and organic amendments, and they definitely had a couple of heavy-duty, welded-steel, digging implements in stock, including:

The Deep Spader, a glorified, heavy duty pitchfork, which has been called the "heavyweight champion of forks" in the organic gardening community. The deep Spader is a super strong, four tine pitchfork, capable of breaking up the soil to a depth of 16 inches in one stroke. Digging a garden out to this depth allows your cannabis plants roots to reach deeper into the ground in search of food and moisture. The deep spader is perfect for the concerned organic gardener, since it breaks up, rather than overturns, the soil. This means that the rich, organic matter, found in the first two inches of soil, stays in place, instead of being mixed throughout, and buried under, the rest of the overturned soil. The deep spader is constructed of corrosion resistant, pointed steel tines, that are sixteen inches in length. These tines are welded to an eighteen inch wide, tubular steel crossbar, which contains a fitting for attaching a heavy-duty steel handle. The recommended handle is a 40 inch length of one-inch pipe, which bolts to the crossbar.

Since you add the handle, different lengths of pipe can be used when more leverage is needed: the longer the pipe, the more prying power available for those cement-hard, rocky soils. The deep spader is not designed for breaking rock and prying, but more for digging and aeration purposes, although it will handle these chores if that is what you choose it for. I use it to push through the soil as deep as possible, and then rock it back and forth, loosening it up for the spud bar or pickaxe. When a rock is hit, the spud bar, or the pick, is used to "pop" it out of the ground. A thick root will require a pickaxe, or even a cutter mattock (see prior blog posts) to cut it off at the ends and pop it out of the ground.

The price for a steel deep spader (handle not included) at Peaceful Valley is $229.00 plus shipping from California. This is a high-quality, professional tool, and it is very much worth the price for the amount of hard work, and broken backs, that it will save you from.

Next, we have the Broadfork: essentially a set of pointed, tubular, steel tines, welded to a heavy-duty steel crossbar. The old school tool was the Glaser Bio-Fork, an all steel broadfork, with detatchable tines for the lawn and garden. The bio fork part is still sold here and there, but the author could not find the tines available for sale anywhere on the net. Peaceful Valley has started carrying the "Valley Oak Broadfork", with five, twelve-inch tines, and two, inch and a half diameter post hole digger handles. The post hole digger handles are tough, and they are used because they are easily replaceable. The price is $200, plus shipping, from California.

The state of the art broadfork these days is the Gulland Broadfork, featuring five, nine inch long tines, and two, heavy-duty ash handles. Dual handles are used to increase leverage even further. The crossbar is twenty inches wide. This is a very heavy duty tool, manufactured by a blacksmith whose goal was to manufacture a broadfork that would last for years. Even better, it only costs $185 plus $25 shipping.

MARIJUANA CANNABIS CULTIVATION GUERILLA GARDENING TOOLS PART 2

Put together a tool kit...before the Spring digging/planting season hits PART 2:

This week, we look at some alternative tools, some that you may never have heard of before! We will start with the mini-shovel. These are the downsized versions of the full-sized shovels that we profiled in the last blog post. A tiny sized shovel like this makes it possible to carry a shovel on you at all times when exploring the countryside for your next guerilla gardening site. One of the first priorities of a good guerilla garden is a halfway decent starting topsoil. The only way to determine the soil situation is to dig a couple of 1x1 foot holes at least 8 inches down. This allows the guerilla grower to view a cross section of the onsite topsoil. Compared to a full sized shovel or spade, it is definitely easier to carry these lightweight shovels across the countryside.

1.) US Army folding entrenching tool/shovel: HERE This is a handy little mini-shovel; about 2.5 feet in length, including the 8 inch blade, with a locking collar on the handle that allows the user to fold the blade at a 90 degree angle to the handle, and lock it down, securing it to form a sort-of pickaxe and trenching tool. This handy device is used by US soldiers to dig foxholes, latrines, garbage pits, and the like. The old-school model has a straight, wooden handle, making it hard to grip when digging in tough soil. This tool works the best when digging in decent topsoil, or in sandy soil, and can also be used for cutting roots and prying rocks out of a hole. It is very hard to break one of these shovels; they are made for the armed forces, after all. Still, when busting through tough, overgrown sod, I would much rather have a full sized shovel or pickaxe to start the hole initially, then using this tool to add finishing touches, like cutting corners, etc. These shovels can be found used and surplus everywhere.

2.) M-1910 T-handle entrenching tool: Another military issue shovel, issued during WW2. Instead of a simple, straight wooden handle, this shovel adds a T to the end of the handle, vastly increasing digging leverage. If funds are scarce, the guerilla grower can look for world war 2 army surplus T handle shovels; they are everywhere. A little more expensive, but of a much higher quality is the M-1910 T handle replica shovels; manufactured using modern technology.

Gerber E-Tool model 22-01945: My personal favorite, at least as far as "mini-shovels go". This is a folding spade which folds in two places, as opposed to the two prior mentioned shovels which only have one folding joint. Because of this, the 01945 folds down from an overall, extended length of 23.75 inches, to a folded length of only 9.25 inches. Lightweight, and small enough to hang on the belt when exploring. The ability to carry one of these small tools when exploring allows the guerilla grower to pre-dig prospective grow sites, in order to determine the type of soil found there.

This tool has a forged, carbon-steel, blade that is serrated along one side, and has a nice point on the end for sod busting, and actually has a hardened pick attachment on the other end. The guerilla grower can use the pickaxe to chop, and the blade to scoop, with no changes or adjustments needed. This shovel has a D-handle for superior grip, and leverage, when digging and chopping. The entire handle is made of glass-filled nylon, so the entire shovel weighs in at only 2.3 pounds.

SOG Entrenching Tool F08: another nice choice in a mini-shovel. This one is smaller, and lighter, than the 01945 profiled above, but still packs a punch, with plenty of functionality. The SOG entrenching tool can be used as a shovel, or a pickaxe. Because the handle is made of steel, it is a very durable and sturdy tool. It also has the pick attachment on the opposite end of the serrated shovel blade, just like the 01945. Fully extended at 18.5 inches,with a folded size of 7.25 inches. This one is even easier to carry at only 1.5 pounds.

 

Chinese Military Shovel WJQ308: if you want to get a real good idea of what these mini-shovels are capable of, check out the Chinese military shovel WJQ 308 in the youtube video here. This is the state-of-the-art mini shovel design on the market today. At 80 to 90 dollars, it is on the high side as far as cost goes, but it is really unbelievable. Just to give you some idea of what this shovel, or any of the shovels covered today, are capable of: shovel, pick, ax, pickaxe saw, hacksaw, machete, potato slicer, barbed wire cutter, grappling hook, weapon, shield, hammer, nail puller, bottle and can opener, oar, boat anchor, and it even has a ruler on the wooden handle.

 

What happens when the guerilla grower hits what seems to be an impenetrable barrier while attempting to dig a garden in the great outdoors? This is a job for a spud bar!

 

Spud Bar: A glorified, oversized crowbar that weighs 15 pounds. A spud bar is a 6 foot long, digger/tamper constructed of forged steel with a hardened chisel point; better described as a giant chisel! Used as a lever to move heavy, or immovable (with a shovel), objects. Typical uses include breaking up clay and hardpans, frozen ground, and other hard materials. Used for digging, prying, or cutting through rocks, roots, or frozen soils. Used to move or break up large tree roots, and other obstacles, and also used to dig pilot holes for fence posts. A spud bar is often used where space limitations will not allow the use of a pickaxe. Everyone should have a spud bar for those "impossible" digging tasks!

 

Root Jack: No, not the Portland, Oregon rock band...what I am talking about here is a tool that is an old time favorite in the herbicide free organic garden. Quickly and efficiently uproots small trees, bushes, roots, blackberry, sumac, suckers, and manzanita. Use the head to grip the unwanted plant at the base, then use the handle to "lever" the plant out of the ground. This tool yanks the plant out of the ground, root sand all. Great for clearing areas that have a very good topsoil base, but are covered over with scrub plants and small trees. Makes an almost impossible job (using normal hand tools) easy!

WATCH US WEEKLY FOR MORE HINTS KINKS AND TIPS FOR THE CANNABIS CULTIVATION MARIJUANA CULTIVATION GEURILLA GROWING PROFESSIONAL!

 

Good Luck,

 

Vinnie Kaz

 

Author: Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: Hints Kinks and Tips for the Clandestine Cannabis Grower

 

http://www.tradesecretspublishing.com/

MARIJUANA CANNABIS CULTIVATION GUERILLA GARDENING TOOLS

Put together a tool kit...before the Spring digging/planting season hits:

A good set of digging tools will make all the difference in the world when you go to dig out your cannabis cultivation garden. When the guerilla grower is using the proper tools, the job goes much quicker, and the digging/cultivation of the soil is much easier. Using the proper tools allows the guerilla gardener to dig for a longer amount of time before becoming fatigued, resulting in a larger garden than could normally be dug. A faster digging time also means less time at the garden site, which helps with security concerns. Always remember this very important cannabis cultivation rule; the more cubic feet of cultivated soil in the marijuana garden, the higher the final yields.

Your choice of digging tools will be dependent upon the type of soil that you are starting with. Starting conditions for your soil can be any of the following, or a combination of the following:

1.) decent topsoil that is overgrown with grasses, roots, and weeds, making it hard to penetrate and dig out.

2.) decent topsoil, good drainage, filled with roots and tree branches.

3.) sandy soils: almost pure sand to a blend of sand and soil/organic matter.

4.) soil with a very high clay content, or a 'hardpan' soil.

5.) rocky, hard packed soil/gravel combination

Depending upon the starting conditions in your guerilla cannabis garden, the existing soil will either be cut up and completely removed and replaced, or it will be broken up into a crumbly soil and combined (usually half and half) with a peat, coir, or topsoil based grow mix. Compost and other organic amendments are then added to the soil mixes.

The aspiring guerilla grower will first want to choose a decent pair of work gloves. The areas that you will be breaking up have probably not been disturbed for decades, if ever. Unless you dig for a living, your hands will be blistered and skinned after any period of guerilla digging. Not only does this hurt like hell, it will keep the grower from excavating additional gardens until the hands are healed.

A good pair of work gloves is a must, usually a pair made of high-quality, premium cowhide leather. These leather gloves do a very good job of shielding your hands from blisters, slivers, and abrasions. I usually use the premium leather work gloves for the hard digging and prying chores, but I switch to a decent cotton, or canvas, work glove when the going gets a little easier. The leather does a much better job of protecting your hands, but it can become very hot after a long period of digging. Do not use rubber work gloves because they will heat up in the sun and become very hot and sticky.

After the gloves have been selected, it is time to stock up on the digging tools that will be required for your type of garden soil. There are many different types of digging tools out there, but we will start with the simplest one, the shovel:

1.) Long handled round-point shovel: My personal choice is the Union Pro long handled round-point shovel. Long Handled Shovel It has a 9 inch round point blade, and a 48 inch wooden handle. A long handled shovel gives tons of leverage when attempting to pry roots or rocks out of a hole. Shovels of this type are available with either wooden or fiberglass handles. Fiberglass should be used if the tools will be stashed out in the woods because a wooden handle can dry-rot if left out in the elements for too long a time. The fiberglass handles are usually yellow in color, and will have to be painted camo colors for use in the deep woods.

2.) Short handled mini round-point shovel: This is the short-handled version with the same size, 9 inch, round point blade at the end. Short Handled Shovel Good for getting into tight spaces: cutting stubborn roots and squaring off the sides, and the edges of grow holes or water reservoirs. Usually an 18 inch, wood or fiberglass, handle.

Both of these shovels have a sharp point at the end of the blade, along with a sharp, cutting edge for slicing through tough sod, roots, and hard clays and topsoils. When using these shovels on undisturbed, hard-packed, or root-filled soils, take a file, or a grinder, and actually sharpen the point and the cutting edges of the shovel like a knife. This will allow the blade to easily cut thru roots and other obstructions, and will generally make the digging chores much easier. Be very careful with a sharpened shovel though, do not cut a piece off of your foot, kneecap, or your shin, or your partner! These things can be made very sharp!

In the case of a garden where all of the existing soil is going to be removed, relocated, and replaced with a growing mix, these sharpened blades are used to cut the soil into 8-10 inch squares, about as deep as the shovel blade, which are then easily pried up fom the hole, and tossed off to the side.

If the existing topsoil is going to be reused in the cannabis garden, but there is a thick layer of wild grass and weeds on the soil surface, use the sharpened blade to cut out squares of soil/grass to a depth of 8 or 9 inches, prying them up, and flipping them over. At this point, the topsoil can be knocked off of the roots of the grass/weeds, and the leftover grass/weeds can be tossed into a pile on the side of the hole.

If a thick, tough root is encountered when digging the marijuana garden, use the sharpened shovel blade to cut the root. First, cut the root in half with the shovel blade where you first encounter it. Grab each end of the cut root and pull it out of the ground, using your hands, until you reach the perimeter of the hole. Cut the root off at this point, and it will not bother you any more when you are digging. Do the same with the other half of the root, cutting it off at the other edge of the grow hole. No need to pull and remove the entire root, just the part that travels through your chosen garden area.

These shovels are perfectly fine for digging in sandy soils. A garden spade is also a good choice for a sandy soil. The spade is a long handled shovel, but it has a square blade, as opposed to a pointed blade. Either one will work fine, but the square blade seems to hold more sand per scoop than the round pointed blade.

Digging in a high clay content soil, or a hardpan soil, with these round, or square bladed spades will quickly lead to a gooey, sticky mess! Hardpan is a very thick, and very sticky, (much stickier than pure clay) layer of claylike material found below the surface of topsoil in certain areas. This sticky, gooey mess actually adheres to the surface of your shovel. Sometimes the shovel can be knocked into a tree trunk to knock the gunk off of the shovel, but usually a second, smaller shovel must be used to actually scrape the goo off of the digging blade. Areas like this can be dug out, but it is extremely time consuming and back breaking to do so. Most cannabis cutivators will move on to a different area instead of having to deal with this sticky mess.

3.) Pickaxe or Mattock: the traditional pickaxe HERE is used to chop, pry, or shred anything that gets in your way when digging out your guerilla cannabis cultivation site. The mattock is simply a pickaxe with an extra wide (3.5 inch) blade on one side of the pickaxe blade, that can be used as in the same way as an axe blade. Cutter Mattock The extra wide blade gives the guerilla gardener added leverage when chopping, prying, or shredding materials. The pickaxe or mattock, is used when the guerilla grower comes across a large stone, or a thick root, that the shovel will not budge. Use the mattock as a lever, for prying rocks out of the ground, or for breaking roots and chopping them out of the ground.

My personal choice when it comes to the pickaxe vs mattock argument is the Union Tools 5 pound Cutter Mattock with a 36 inch heavy-duty fiberglass handle. The blade head on this thing weighs 5 pounds, and is very solid, while the fiberglass handle is splinter proof.

I have been guerilla growing for about thirty years now, and I have personally used all of these tools. The ones that I mentioned have a pretty high price tag, the are definitely not the $5 shovels that are found at wal-mart, home depot, menards,etc. but they are manufactured for the professional landscaper, firefighter, and forestry service worker. Your investment will last you a very long time, and it will save you a lot of hard work.


WATCH US WEEKLY FOR MORE HINTS KINKS AND TIPS FOR THE CANNABIS CULTIVATION MARIJUANA CULTIVATION GEURILLA GROWING PROFESSIONAL!

Good Luck

Vinnie Kaz

Author: Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: Hints Kinks and Tips for the Clandestine Cannabis Grower

http://www.tradesecretspublishing.com/



Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: signed serial-numbered copies available now!

CHECK OUT a REALLY COOL flash viewer preview of Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets here. Vinnie Kaz has allowed you to preview almost 80 pages out of the 400 found in the book!

The first 500 copies of Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: hints kinks and tips for the clandestine cannabis grower, are off the press, perfect bound, and now on sale at the website: http://www.tradesecretspublishing.com/ 

The first 500 copies are assigned serial numbers (1~500) and signed by the author, Vinnie Kaz.

Soon to be a collectors item, these original, signed, serial numbered manuscripts will make a great stocking stuffer for the "gardener" in your life!

Bottom line: the guerilla grower desires to double, even triple, current yields of the outdoor cannabis garden, while reducing risk, and the amount of back breaking labor involved.

This is a book about outdoor, guerilla-style, marijuana cultivation, written by the very professionals out there in the fields doing the growing, risking their asses to supply the country with high-grade, connoisseur quality marijuana. Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets is written in the form of an internet growers forum: questions are presented, then answers and solutions to those problems are provided by experienced marijuana growers.

 

Because of the very illegal nature of the cannabis plant, it is very hard for experienced growers to get together and compare notes. It ain't like brewing beer! It can be done, using the various growing forums found on the internet, but the researcher would have to sift through tons and tons of misinformation, and old wives tales, before stumbling across that one grower out of 100 that can actually provide the solution to his or her marijuana growing problems.

"Budding" author Vinnie Kaz has solved this problem for you, distilling the business of clandestine cannabis cultivation down to its' most important techniques, tactics, and procedures. The drive, and the creativity, of the modern day marijuana grower is clearly demonstrated throughout the almost 400 pages, and 34 chapters of this book.

"Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: hints kinks and tips for the clandestine cannabis grower" has been described as "the Marijuana Growers Guide meeting up in a brutal, head-on collision with Popular Science and Popular Mechanics. This book is written from an engineering, as well as a logistical, viewpoint. Each and evey page of this book contains a multitude of novel and ingenious marijuana growing methods and techniques.

Until next time,

Vinnie Kaz

REALLY COOL Flash viewer book preview of Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets

Here is a REALLY COOL Flash Viewer Book Preview of Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets

Vinnie Kaz has graciously provided you with about 80 free pages out of the almost 400 pages in the book!

Check it out when you get the chance!

Thanks

Vinnie Kaz

signed serial numbered pre-publication date copies

Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets: hints kinks and tips for the clandestine cannabis grower "Insider secrets and techniques from the professionals out there doing the growing".

The website is now up and running at www.tradesecretspublishing.com and the first 500 or so digitally printed copies of Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets are starting to come off of the press. The cover designer is delivering the 4 color PDF cover file to us tomorrow.

Vinnie Kaz, budding author of Guerilla Growing Trade Secrets Hints kinks and tips for the clandestine cannabis grower will soon be offering signed, serial numbered, original printings of this revolutionary new outdoor growing textbook. On sale date is projected for mid-November...very soon! Watch the website at www.tradesecretspublishing.com for updates.